Thick emerald waves broke over a quarter-mile-long sandbar, blocking our way. A few hundred yards east, whitecaps crashed across Exuma Sound — a 6,000-foot-deep abyss of rolling swells and powerful ...

There is a common tagline across various travel guides and tourism brochures for Exuma or the string of islands and cays at the center of the Bahamas—"the only footprints you’ll find on the beach are ...